Wednesday, Oct 26, 2005
On Saturday, October 22nd, a 37-year-old male climber fell approximately 60 feet while leading the third pitch of the Escape Artist (III, 5.10-) in SOB Gully. The climber hit a small ledge midway through the fall and was caught by his belayer approximately 25 feet above the belay ledge. The climbing party then began a self-rescue, aided by another party on the route. Two other climbers passed the injured party and finished their climb in order to notify park staff. The injured climber was lowered several hundred feet to a ledge in SOB Gully to await rescue. At approximately 6 p.m., a hasty team of park climbing VIPs descended the gully and began initial treatment of the injured climber. At approximately 9 p.m., a second team, led by two ranger/EMT’s and a Montrose County paramedic, descended the gully. The injured party was stabilized and treated through the night. On Sunday, a team of six climbing VIPs descended the gully to assist with lowering operations. The injured climber was lowered 100 feet off a ledge and approximately 1,200 feet down the gully to the Gunnison River, then carried a quarter mile downstream to a helicopter landing zone. He was airlifted out of the canyon and transported to Montrose Memorial Hospital, where he is in an ICU recovering from surgery. The total extent of injuries is still unknown, but he suffered multiple femur fractures, significant internal bleeding, and fractures in both feet. Patient care and the speed of the rescue operation substantially reduced further injuries. The successful rescue would not have been possible without the efforts of several groups of climbers staying in the park over the weekend. The work of park staff, local agencies, climbing volunteers, and the climbing party involved in the accident without question led to a life saved. |
